The seat of the alternator on the shaft is cone shaped.
The alternator is fixed on the conical part of the shaft.
Due to tighten the safety screw the alternator is pressed on the cone.
To remove the alternator from the shaft without damage the special HOREX tool WH6 is required.
After removal of the safety screw this bolt is placed into the hole of the shaft.
Then the safety screw is screwed in the shaft again until it is under pressure.
Normally the alternator isn`t removed by the pressure of the bolt only, because of its strong seat on the cone.
Additionally a slight hammer stroke on the head of the screw is required.
In any case it is necessary to holt the alternator with one hand to prevent it form falling down.
Alternate it is also possible to use a screw as removing tool. The thread on the front of the screw has to be removed.
By selction of the screw it has to be observed to take one with high hardness degree. Otherwise it will bend under pressure.
Also the lengh of the threat on the screw is important because there is a threat in the alternator (for removal) and also in the shaft (to fix it). If the threat is to long, it will grip into the threat of the shaft an lock the alternator on it.
At first i located the single cables on the frame.
Before cutting the cables, take care that you leave enought spare, to ensure that you have enough cable for connection, or if you have to correct the position of the cable again.
When all cables were in position, i combined them on some positions with a tape.
On all positions where leads brunches off, i fixed them also with tape.
Now i removed the cables from the frame.
On the removed cable harness you can see the brunches with the tapes.
The next step is to get the protective tubes onto the harness.
After this, i isolated the brunches with a special isolation tape.
Originally there are some metal laces on the inside of the rear fender, to fix the harness.
Without this laces it will be hard to install the harness.
Before i connected the leads, i coated them with tin.
There are two different generators installed on the HOREX Reginas.
Until beginning 1954 there was the model NORIS MLZa 6/45/60 with nominal power of 45 Watt at 1800 rpm. installed.
On April 1954 HOREX changed to the model NORIS MLZa 60/6/1600 with nominal power of 60 Watt at 1600 rpm.
In the factory instruction KDM-W3 Generator "Noris" from 10.4.1954 HOREX advised, that the parts of the two models are not changeable against each other.
Partnumbers of Noris generators.
I decided to change the mechanical voltage regualtor agianst a electronical one.
By this change i hope to increase the reliability of the elctrical system and to prevent the battery to overcharge.
After a research on the internet i found out, that my voltage regulator isnīt the original one anymore.
This is the electrical overview of the Noris generator with the mechanical voltage regulator.
At first i labeld and removed the leads from the mechanical regulator.
Then i reconnect the leads corresponding to the installation manual to the electronic regulator.
The three leads are connected to the terminals of the electronic regualtor.
The earth is connected via the housing of the regualtor.
On my regulator the fourth terminal is not connected..
The old mechanic regualtor needs a resistor to regulate the voltage.
This resistor is made by an resistive cable, which is added to the field winding.
One end of the resitive cable is connected to the regulator, the other one to earth (see drawing).
The earth connection of the resistive cable has to be removed and isolated.
The diagram shows the disconnected resistor.
on the position, where the cable leaves the housing, the cable was cropped.
I have shorted the cabel to solder it to the end of a new cable in the housing.
After this, the cable was isolated by a heat shrink tube.
Now the idle tracking switch was mounted into the gearshift housing.
On the bottom of the motor the cable leaves the gearshift housing.
