On the first view, the engine looks not bad for me. Ignition and generator are OK. I can kick the starter and shift the gears. The compression is bad, and after kicking the starter, there was oil on the street. Due to the massive dirt everywhere on the motor, i could not localize where it was comming from.
My motor housing (on the picture) is made from three parts. The older HOREX Regina Model has a housing made from four parts. You can detect a quadripartite motor by the additional parting point on the left side of the vent screw.
This motor is called "small motor" due to the size of the left cover of the primary drive, which is 45mm thick. Later on, the housing was 55mm thick because there is an additional bearing in the cover.
On the front of the motor you will find numberst stamped on each part of the housing. When the motor was produced, the numbers on each part were equal.
On the test-run everything was OK. The centrifugal adjust device for the ignition timing is workung properly.
Also the carbon brushes are in good condition.
The rotor with the collector.
After removal of the rotor you can see the left part of the crankshaft.
In the cover of the primary drive is only a shaft sealing ring.
On the 55mm wide cover, there is a bearing inside.
A misfortune happens when i try to open the screws of the left housing.
To get a lot of pressure on the screwdriver, i place the motor on the right side. At this time the pin was fallen out of the shaft and got wedged. The result you can see here.
Nobody is perfect. Take care in the future....
The primary drive with clutch and starter after opening the housing.
The ventilation system ejects the overpressure directly into the primary drive on my motor.
On my primary drive there is a duplex-chain, on older motors it is a simpley chain.
The chain tension is controlled by a spring steel sheet. On newer models there is a adjustable chain tensioner.
The coupling disc wheel without discs, after opening the screw nut (right-hand thread on my motor).
The clutch body is fixed on the chain-wheel with six screws.
On the right wheel, where the clutch body was fixed, you will find six rubber mountings.
To remove the chain wheel form the splined shaft i have to use a pull-off tool. Take care about the spring for the kick-starter. When i have done this the the shaft of the kick-starter gets out an the spring of the kick-starter expands instantly. So it was not possible to count how many turns i was pretensioned. Also it is a good idea, to make some pictures before starting to disassemble.
The screw nut has a right-hand thread as you can see on the picture.
Up to a type 1 motor, the rolls of the left crank shaft bearings are running directly on the shaft.
The mark maybe means 64 week of 1952?
This two washers ajdusts the alignment of the two chainweels, to get a straight run of the chain.
The camshaft is driven by helical Gear wheels. On older models there was a chain.
Mounted in the cover of the timing case, there is a oil pump. This oil pump is driven by a worm gear.
There are two different oilpumps. This one is the old one, where a piston is working inside. The newer one is a toothed wheel pump.
Due to this, there ar also two different worm gear wheels (right winding, left winding).
The lubrication of the motor is working like a dry sump lubrication.
The pump is working in two directions.
One direction is, to suck oil out of the oiltank and pump onto the critical parts of the motor.
The other direction is, to pump the oil back from the motor into the oiltank.
A lot of desiccated grease, but better than rusty.
On the right side is the contact part for the detection the neutral gear.
The cable was cut off at the position, where it left the housing. So the control light in the headlamp wasn´t working.
View from left side.
The axis of the gear lever has a lot of space. Looks like that the bush or the shaft is worn out.
There ar two ratchets on the lever. They are hold apart by a spring.
After removing the foot control box completely, I found a possible source of the oil-leaking of the motor.
Maybe the sealing of the drive sprocket is damaged.
Due to a low tension, the chain was sliding on the bottom of the chain case.
Oil everywhere.
Also on the cover of the cain case i found stress marks.
After removing the drive sprocket, you can see the alu gasket ring, which should retain the oil in the gearbox.
The grooves on the gasket are not from the removal of the drive sprocket. Maybe thats the reason of the heavy oil leakage.
The worm gear on the shaft of the sprocket, is to transport the oil back into the gearbox, when the sprocket is turning.
At the first Models of the motor, it is intended that a minimal part of the oil comes out of the gearbox, to lubricate the chain.
Later models have a different drive sprocket without worm gear and a different sealing. There you have to lubricate the chain manually.
In meantime i got the new drive sprocket.
It has s plain shaft. For sealing a simmerring is used.
The screws of the motorhousing have different lengths.
To get each screw back in place later, i put a mark on the housing. To mark the screws i used a tape.
Warning!
Take care when opening the housing if you have the bearing, where the rolls running directly on the crankshaft.
In this case the rolls are bare in the bearing and its possible that the fall out.
To avoid this, i placed a old pipe through the bearings..
