To do the paintwork on the lamp holder and the lower covering tubes, i disassembled the fork already before. Then i mounted the fork temporary, to get a proper stand of the motorbike.
Here you can see the tow screw nuts, which holds the triple clamp and adjusts the bearing clearance.
The order of the screw nuts on the picture is wrong. The thicker nut holds the triple clamp, the thinner nut ist a counter nut. The wrench size is 36mm.
The upper bearing is made of two bearing shells und 22 loose balls.
Same system as upper tripple clamp, also 22 loose balls.
Additionaly to the upper tripple clamp, there are two screws to clamp the pipes of the fork.
This picture is from a workshop manual.
(1) Guiding tube
(2) Oil drain screw
(3) Fiber washer
(4) Cylinder head bolt
(5) Seal ring
(6) Rubber buffer
(7) Support tube
(8) Main tube / plunger
(9) Buffer tube
(10) Rubber ring
(11) Guide bush
(12) Shaft seal
(13) Compensation washer
(14) Seeger ring
(15) Tube collar
(16) Spring
(17) Washer
(18) Upper cap screw
Advice: The plunger (8) is fixed on the bottom of the main tube (8). On the drawing it is draught as one part.
The special tools on the drawing are for:
This ist the fork tube collar. The purpose of this collar ist to "shield" the guide bush to the top. I wrote already, that there are different models of the collar. On this one it is possible to fix a rubber gaiter to it.
After removing the collar, you can see the seeger ring.
To remove this you can use a bended spring-ring pliers, as written in the manual.
I donīt have one, so i used a bended long-nosed pliers.
The main tube with all parts after disassembling.
The main tube with all parts form the upper area.
In order from the top:
-Tube collar
-Seeger ring
-Compensation washer
-Shaft seal
-Guide bush
The main tube with all parts form the lower area.
In order from the top:
-Buffer tube
-Metall washer on buffer tube (function?)
-Plunger
I have changed the shaft seals and the guide bush. Other parts i left original.
The main tube with the guide bush and new shaft seals.
Instead of the tube collar another seal ring ist mountet upside down.
I have drilled four new hohles in the main tube shortly over the buffer tube.
This insures the oilflow, doesn't matter in which position the buffer tube is.
On the old buffer tube the collar on top of the buffer tube should hold the tube on top of the maintube.
How good this was working, you can see on the frayed bottom of the old buffertube.
Buffertubes with collar are not available at the dealers.
The support tube with all parts.
In order from the top:
-Rubber buffer
-Cylinder head bolt
On the top of the support tube is a 10mm hexagon. This is to unscrew the support tube from the guiding tube.
On the reduced top of the support tube it is possible to place a 17mm socket.
I used this trick for disassebling the main tube from the guiding tube.
When the guide bush dont comes out of the guiding tube, i placed the 17mm socket with a extension on the support tube, and give some hammer strokes on it.
Before you do this, itīs also a good idea to heat up the area on the support tube, where the guide bush is located.
Inside the upper cap screw is a valve.
When oil comes into the valve, itīs possible that the valve stucks together and stops working.
The screw is working as an non-return valve. It should prevent the air to come back into the tubes, in case of rebound.
If you donīt want to buy new screws, when the valve is not working, itīs also possible to open the screws and clean the valves.
An instruction how to do this, you can get in the HOREX forum (see category literature).
This instruction is from Christoph and works perfectly.
THANKS Christoph!
To open the upper cap screw, you have to remove the mortises, which fixes the valve in the screw.
The best way is, to use an smal dimant cutting bit.
To get a better grip in the bench vice, its useful to straighten tow sides of the valve.
There arre different varieties of upper cap screws/valves.
The varieties are only on the outside of the screws/valves, internally they are identical.
All parts of the scew and valve.
Here you can see, how the valve is working.
The round metal plate is lifted by the outgoing air onto the triangle plate, when the fork is gets compressed.
The air comes easily out of the fork.
When the fork rebounds, the round metal plate falls back on the valve seat, and prevents the air to come back into the tubes.
And exactly this is the problem.
When the round plate gets stuck on the triangle plate due to dirt or oil,
the air comes back into the tube without resistance.
If you want to leave everything original, you should open the screws, clean the valves, test the function of the valves and close them by mortis.
The test of the function should be done, before fixing the valves by mortis for completion.
I made it this way:
Assemble the valve and shake it. You should hear a "click", when the round plate strikes on the ends.
After this, i tested it with the mouth, by blowing / soucking air trough the valve (not everyone's case, if the screw is not "clean").
If you want to test the valve directly in the forktube, take care that the valve dont falls into the fork.
Due to that i expect, that the valves sooner or later get stucked again, i found an alternative solution to close the valves.
On the lower part of the screw, i drilled a hole for a countersunk screw and taped a 3mm thread.
At the side of the valvering, where the countersunk screw touches the valvering, i drilled a hole into the ring. This takes care, that the ring cant fall out or the screw.
Attention!!
Dont drill to deep, otherwise the hole damages the valve seat.
After i have made some experiments with the valve i found out, that only one drop of oil is enough, to stop the function of the valve..
The first idea to improve the valve is from Christoph. He has changed the metal plates against a metal ball and a spring.
I have tested this also, but without a spring, because i canīt find a suitable for testing. Function is OK, but without the spring, the ball bounces heavily in the valve and onto the valve seat.
After this, i think about a solution, to make the valve lighter then the solution with the stell ball.
And this is my idea:
First i drilled a 6mm hole in the center of te triangle plate.
I cuted from an old steel fuel pipe, with 6mm external diameter, a piece of 30mm.
After this i cleaned the pipe and the triangle plate with sandpaper. Then i sticked the pipe into the hole of the triangle plate and soldered them together.
The next step was to extend the hole of the pipe by drilling, until a spring from a ballpen gets easyly through the pipe.
To adjust the lengh of the spring, i put the triangle plate with the pipe back into the upper cap screw. Now itīs possible to extend the spring, that the end of the spring looks curtly over the end or the triangle plate.
First test: cleaned all parts and assembled the Valve. Result: working fine.
Second test: put oil on the valve and assembled the valve. Result: working fine.
Now it is also possible to adjust the valve by the lengh of the spring.
This is the screw after improvement.
